I have a sweet and easy pattern today for you – the Sweet Delight Crochet Top! This little beauty is made using a cotton yarn in soft colors of rose, aqua and light gray. It is a handkerchief style top, and is fitted at the bust while swinging out at the waist. It is comfortable and flattering and easily pairs with shorts or pants.
I knew I wanted to design a top like this ever since I made the Crochet Ruffle Apron. I loved how flattering the shape of that pattern was and wanted to modify it to make a crochet top that would be perfect for the summer. This crochet top is light and airy with a swingy effect. Let’s get started!
Note: I re-designed this top since the original post and have updated the pattern. I was never thrilled with the sizeable gap around the arms of the original tank top design. The new design is not really a tank top, rather, it has a wide neck with a short cap sleeve. Also, it is now worked all in one piece from the top down. I hope you love the new design as much as I do!
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Sweet Delight Crochet Top
Materials Used:
- I Love This Cotton in Rosey II (1 skein for all sizes)
- I Love This Cotton in Aqua (1 skein for all sizes)
- I Love This Cotton in Dove (2 skeins for all sizes)
- Size I/9 – 5.50 mm crochet hook
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
Sizes:
S, M, L
Abbreviations:
ch = chain(s)
hdc = half double crochet
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
hdc2tog = half double crochet two together
American crochet terms used throughout
Gauge:
4″ x 4″ = 12 hdc x 11 rows
Finished Size Approximately:
Finished bust measures: S = 32″, M = 36″, L = 40″
Size M is shown in the photo. When laid flat, it measures 17″ long in front, 12.5″ long in back, and 18″ wide.
You can easily customize the length of your top by adding additional rounds.
Instructions:
This top is crocheted in the round, from the top down, with no seams. The number of stitches required per size are indicated in parentheses: (S, M, L).
Increases are made one of two ways: 1) At the top of the garment (before you split the yoke), increases are made by simply placing 2 hdc’s in the same stitch or 2) when the pattern calls for you to increase by x number of stitches, you may place the designated number of increases wherever you like in that round, just try to space them out fairly evenly so they are not clumped together. When you are working below the yoke split, increases are made by simply placing 3 hdc’s in one stitch and they are placed in the center of the round.
Although this pattern is worked in rounds, you will turn your work at the end of each round. This helps achieve a neat look where your rows join, as shown in the photo below.
For the Color Changes:
You can change colors in any sequence you like, or work the entire piece in a solid color if you prefer! But if you want to change colors the same way I did in the photo, here is how:
S & M:
Use Rosey II for Rounds 1-9, Aqua for Rounds 10-12, and Dove for the remaining rounds (except switch back to Aqua for the final 3 rounds).
L:
Use Rosey II for Rounds 1-12, Aqua for Rounds 13-15, and Dove for the remaining rounds (except switch back to Aqua for the final 3 rounds).
Color changes should occur at the end of a round, when slip stitching to the beginning hdc. Insert your hook into the beginning hdc with the old color, but draw your hook back through and make your slip stitch with the new color.
To Begin:
Ch (100, 110, 110). Sl st to beginning ch making sure that the yarn is not twisted.
Round 1:
Ch 1, hdc in same st and in each st around, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 2:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each st around, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 3:
Repeat round 2.
Round 4:
Repeat round 2.
Round 5:
Repeat round 2.
Round 6:
Repeat round 2, however, increase by (16, 20, 20) sts this round. At the end of this round your stitch count will be (116, 130 130) sts.
Round 7:
Repeat round 2.
Round 8:
Repeat round 2.
Round 9:
Repeat round 2, however, increase by (16, 20, 20) sts this round. At the end of this round your stitch count will be (132, 150 150) sts.
Round 10:
Repeat round 2.
Round 11:
Repeat round 2.
Round 12:
Repeat round 2, however, increase by (16, 20, 20) sts this round. At the end of this round, your stitch count will be (148, 170, 170) sts.
Round 13:
Repeat round 2.
Round 14:
Repeat round 2.
Round 15:
Repeat round 2, however, increase by (0, 0, 20) sts this round. At the end of this round, your stitch count will be (148, 170, 190) sts.
If you are making a size S or M, skip ahead to the section on splitting the yoke. Size L continues as follows.
Round 16:
Repeat round 2.
Round 17:
Repeat round 2.
Splitting the Yoke:
Round 18:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and each of next (24, 27, 31) sts, ch 3, skip next (24, 29, 31) sts, hdc in each of next (50, 56, 64) sts, ch 3, skip next (24, 29, 31) sts, hdc in each of next (24, 27, 31) sts, 2hdc in last st, sl st to beginning hdc.
Your stitch count is now (107, 119, 135) sts. This stitch count includes each hdc and each ch.
To work on the rest of the body:
We will now create the handkerchief shape of the main body, as shown in the photo above.
Round 19:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (52, 58, 66) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (53, 59, 67) sts, sl st to beginning hdc. (Remember that each hdc and each ch counts as a stitch).
Round 20:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (53, 59, 67) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (54, 60, 68) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 21:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (54, 60, 68) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (55, 61, 69) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 22:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (55, 61, 69) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (56, 62, 70) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 23:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (56, 62, 70) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (57, 63, 71) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 24:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (57, 63, 71) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (58, 64, 72) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 25:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (58, 64, 72) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (59, 65, 73) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 26:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (59, 65, 73) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (60, 66, 74) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 27:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (60, 66, 74) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (61, 67, 75) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 28:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (61, 67, 75) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (62, 68, 76) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 29:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (62, 68, 76) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (63, 69, 77) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 30:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (63, 69, 77) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (64, 70, 78) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 31:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (64, 70, 78) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (65, 71, 79) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 32:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (65, 71, 79) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (66, 72, 80) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 33:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (66, 72, 80) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (67, 73, 81) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 34:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (67, 73, 81) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (68, 74, 82) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 35:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (68, 74, 82) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (69, 75, 83) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 36:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (69, 75, 83) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (70, 76, 84) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 37:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (70, 76, 84) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (71, 77, 85) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
Round 38:
Ch 1, turn work, hdc in same st and in each of the next (71, 77, 85) sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the last (72, 78, 86) sts, sl st to beginning hdc.
I stopped here because I was happy with the length. If you would like your top to be longer, just keep adding additional rounds until you reach your desired length.
If you wish to extend the length, but do not wish to keep increasing the width with each round, here’s how: Work 1 hdc in each stitch until you get to the 2 stitches before the stitch where you place the 3 hdc, and hdc2tog those 2 stitches. Work the 3hdc into the next stitch, then hdc2tog the next 2 stitches. Then work 1 hdc in each stitch until the end of the round.
Fasten off and weave in all ends. I hope you enjoy this pattern!
If you make one I’d love to see it. You can tag me @cashmeredandelions on Instagram!
Thank YOU for sharing your patterns. Can’t wait to make this one. Love all your patterns for summer tops since they are mostly one piece with no seam (Hooray!).
Made your Summer Berry Top with Red Heart Ombre & it turned out great. I “monkeyed” around the measurements since I have small shoulders, but heavy chested. Worn it to a ladies get together & now all my friends want me to make them one. Thanks So Much for your generosity for making this a FREE pattern.
I’m so glad you like them! Makes my day.